RETINOL: EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW

Retinol is one of the star active ingredients, both for its anti-wrinkle effects, proven by scientific studies - it is considered a reference anti-wrinkle drug by the FDA in the United States - and for its many other benefits for the skin.

RETINOL: EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT THIS BENCHMARK YOUTH ACTIVE INGREDIENT

Retinol is one of the star active ingredients, both for its anti-wrinkle effects, proven by scientific studies - it is considered a reference anti-wrinkle drug by the FDA in the United States - and for its many other benefits for the skin. 

Beyond its smoothing and renovating effect, it also acts on the loss of firmness linked to the degradation of the skin's supporting fibers by stimulating the production of collagen and elastin.

Retinol belongs to the retinoid family, derived from vitamin A and available in different forms. It is used in cosmetics to prevent and correct skin aging, but also to treat imperfections. Indeed, retinoic acid is used in the medicinal treatment of acne, it is the active molecule of Roaccutane. 

 THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF RETINOL AVAILABLE

A short guide to navigating the different types of retinol and their uses, from the strongest and potentially irritating to the mildest and very well tolerated.

 [Retinoic acid or tretinoin]: available only with a medical prescription, the drug Roaccutane is indicated for the treatment of acne and often causes severe skin irritation, with peeling and redness.

[Retinol]: This is the strongest version available without a prescription, approximately 20% weaker than retinoic acid. Used against deep wrinkles, its dosage is limited to 0.3% in cosmetics.

[Microencapsulated Retinol]: This form improves the stability of retinol and creates a shield to reduce the risk of dehydration. It is recommended for the treatment of fine lines and wrinkles.

[Retinyl palmitate]: this retinol derivative, also called retinyl, is the gentlest version that minimizes the risk of skin irritation, but also the least active.

 Good to know

Retinol has basically the same biological effects as retinoic acid, but annoying side effects, including irritation, are reduced because the transformation of retinol into retinoic acid takes place directly in the skin.

IS RETINOL AN EXFOLIANT?

Contrary to appearances, retinol is not considered an exfoliant, although it does have an exfoliating action. 

Retinol has a keratolytic type action, that is to say it accelerates the elimination of dead cells by increasing cell renewal in the epidermis. Used incorrectly, in the wrong doses and in an unsuitable form, it can cause drying of the skin accompanied by scaling: the skin peels. This is why many often emphasize its irritating effect on the skin. It is an active ingredient to be used with caution to accustom your skin to its use.

RETINOL, A PHOTOSENSITIZING ACTIVE INGREDIENT?

Retinoids break down in sunlight, so they are usually packaged in specifically tailored packaging. UV exposure is therefore not recommended after applying retinol treatment so as not to degrade it. Retinol is not photosensitizing, but its smoothing effect refines the surface layer of the epidermis. Result? Increased sensitivity and greater risk of sunburn. It is therefore recommended to apply a retinol treatment in the evening, to avoid any exposure to UV rays.

IS RETINOL RESERVED FOR MATURE SKIN?

Popular for its anti-wrinkle action, retinol has both a preventive and curative effect on the quality of the skin, including in the deeper layers. It smoothes the skin texture by accelerating cell renewal, stimulates the production of elastin and collagen and prevents the degradation of dermal fibers. It therefore acts in the long term, both on deep wrinkles and on the loss of firmness and volume. Retinol is effective on the quality of the skin's structures and its external appearance.

But its spectacular properties have many other positive effects! Retinol is therefore recommended at all ages for different skin problems.

Exfoliating action for oily and blemished skin

Thanks to its keratolytic action, retinol eliminates dead cells that clog pores by accelerating cell renewal. In addition to this scrubbing power, it regulates sebum production: 2 major benefits for oily or blemished skin which finds a smooth, clear and luminous complexion.

 Stimulation of cell renewal for skin lacking radiance

The origin of dull complexion is often due to too slow cell renewal. Dead cells and toxins accumulate on the surface of the skin, resulting in a dull complexion and a tired face. Here again, the keratolytic properties of retinol remove dead cells by accelerating cell renewal. It therefore acts as a real radiance “booster” to regain a luminous face.

 Depigmenting effect for brown spots

Retinol first acts on the surface on existing brown spots, always through its stimulatory effect on cell renewal. The skin is smoothed and clumps of dead cells and melanin are eliminated. Deep down, retinol reduces pigment production, thus helping to limit the risk of the appearance of new hyperpigmentation spots. 

Skin texture smoothing effect for uneven complexions

The visible action of retinol on improving skin texture is also explained by its ability to exfoliate the epidermis by stimulating cell renewal. By unclogging pores and smoothing superficial imperfections, it makes way for brand new cells. 

 IS RETINOL NOT RECOMMENDED FOR DRY AND SENSITIVE SKIN?

Very effective, retinol can have a potentially irritating effect, which is why it has long been not recommended for dry and sensitive skin. If this is your case, good news, the formulation of retinol with vegetable oils close to skin lipids promotes its good tolerance, provided that you respect the precautions for use to optimally integrate it into your beauty routine.

HOW TO PROPERLY USE RETINOL IN YOUR BEAUTY ROUTINE?

Who doesn't dream of enjoying the unique effects of retinol on skin texture, radiance of the complexion, smoothing of fine lines and wrinkles, firmness, and density of the skin? 
Multitasking, this powerful active ingredient nevertheless requires respecting simple but essential precautions for use to give the best of itself. 

The basic rule: gradually get your skin used to retinol.

Start with minimal concentration.

With a low-dose retinol, you put all the chances on your side for better tolerance, without the risk of irritation and unwanted flaking.

Find the right rhythm.

At the beginning, use retinol 1 or 2 times a week, then little by little every other evening, observing your skin's reactions and adapting the number of applications.

 Avoid bad associations.

Do not use retinol at the same time as other potentially irritating keratolytic active ingredients, such as fruit acids, such as BHA and AHA.

Retinol and eczema, psoriasis, and rosacea

If you suffer from this type of skin condition, it is best to avoid retinol. This active ingredient tends to aggravate skin dryness, redness, irritation, flaking... don't worry, there are other, gentler solutions that are better suited to your skin. 

 Can we combine retinol with other active ingredients?

As we have seen, you should never pair retinol with fruit acids like AHAs and BHA (salicylic acid). Also avoid vitamin C. If your youth routine includes another active ingredient – ​​such as resveratrol for example – use it instead in the morning and favour the use of retinol in the evening. 

 SHOULD YOU STOP TAKING RETINOL IF YOU EXPERIENCE SKIN REACTIONS?

Even if the new formulations based on retinol are much better tolerated, remember to observe your skin's reactions. Retinol requires time to produce its effects and your skin must tame this very powerful active ingredient. 

 Normal reactions: some tightness, some redness and slight peeling. These reactions are temporary and fade over time.

More marked reactions: unpleasant sensations of heating of the skin, tingling, slight irritations. It is necessary to reduce the frequency of applications for a while.

Intense reactions: burning sensations, very marked scaling, very unpleasant tingling. We advise you to stop retinol which is not suitable for your skin.

CHANGE YOUR SKIN WITH THE INTENSIVE RETINOL LIFTING TREATMENT 

Have you been convinced by the anti-aging promises of retinol? It's time to take action with the Institut Esthederm Retinol Intensive Lifting Cure. In 2 months, this treatment boosts your skin and brings you all the benefits of retinol in a form that is as effective as it is safe.

 What routine during the treatment?

The Intensive Retinol Lifting Cure is made up of 2 complementary treatments:

- A serum concentrated in retinol (0.3%) with rapid release, stabilized in noble antioxidant oils.

- A creamy cream containing time-release retinol , formulated to control the potentially irritating effects of retinol based on how your skin reacts.

 Used in synergy, this duo allows you to benefit from the powers of retinol while avoiding unwanted effects.

For whom?

If you have skin marked by signs of aging, deep wrinkles, fine lines, scars, uneven complexion ... If you have abused the sun a little or a lot, if you have noticed a loss of radiance and firmness, sometimes linked to hormonal changes… This treatment is made for you! 

 What's the difference with other retinol treatments?

Institut Esthederm has put its expertise into the formulation of this retinol treatment in order to offer this ultra-powerful active ingredient, at the right dose. The association with a selection of noble oils optimizes penetration into the skin while providing greater suppleness and comfort. 

 Why do the Intensive Retinol Lifting Cure in winter?

It is preferable to use retinol during the winter period, outside of any sun exposure, due to the keratolytic action of the molecule which thins the superficial layer of the skin. We recommend that you apply your retinol treatments in the evening and protect your skin from UV rays during the day, during the treatment, in case of exposure to the sun.

 What effects can we expect?

The Intensive Retinol Lifting Cure works at the same time on all the skin's youth markers.

• Smoothes fine lines and wrinkles, even deep ones
• Evens out skin texture
• Restores radiance and transparency of the complexion
• Improves the tone of the skin, which becomes softer and silkier

Proven results

After just 1 application of Intensive Retinol serum

Smooth skin 91%
Nourished skin 88%
Luminous skin 71%
The product penetrates quickly 85%
The product is pleasant to apply 85%

After 28 days of using the Intensive Retinol serum *

More even complexion 79%
Brighter complexion 79%
Skin looks more beautiful 76%
The skin is more toned 76%

* Use test carried out on 34 women, aged 25 to 55, all skin types with wrinkles on the face and around the eyes. Application once a day for 28 days.